If you’ve read Bop’s post you know that I already build a TC-H style Cyclone.
I build this conversion last year and tested it the whole season and I really liked it.
Some history and more on the rebuild after the jump
I didn’t really do this conversion because of the balance but because I never really liked the way battery’s where mounted on my HPI Pro4 and on my Cyclone. The Pro4 has a battery brace but it was designed for NICD/NIMH battery’s and not for Lipo’s so they could still slide with the brace on.
I was really happy when I saw a picture of a TC-H on RC Drift Revolution and began searching for more info. After a while I found the builders blog: http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/gjtfj940
While the original builder used TC-D parts I used parts from R2hobbies.
R2hobbies has an HPI Pro-D clone which uses the same batteryholder. I used R2 parts because both the Pro-D and TC-D were already discontinued, so parts weren’t easy to find and the TC-FD wasn’t announced yet at that time.
Because the TC-D parts weren’t easy to find I just used the original steering and modded that for more lock.
As I said in the intro I really liked the conversion but something I didn’t like was the way it looked.
So for this year I decided to combine two of my Cyclones and make one nice looking one.
Also the Cyclone WCE had alloy knuckles, rear hubs, titanium coated suspension and shock shafts and new style shock towers.
This part I really hated to do so I decided to do it the easiest way possible. Bolted the top half of the WCE onto the bottom half of the old TC-H.
Modded the alloy knuckles for more lock (Yes those looked really terrible 😛 ).
This is how i ‘modded’ the steering. Used ballstuds with longer thread and added spacers.
Also used open ballends because the stock ones where the last thing limiting the lock.
No this mod doesn’t get rid of the ackermann, it even gives it more then it already had.
But i don’t think that i ever had problems because of that.
Changed the C-hubs because my original TC-H had 6degree hubs.
Both done and with all the electronics.
But the rebuild isn’t the only thing I did to my chassis, I also decided to finally drive with a CS setup. A lot of people in the Dutch rcdrift competition drive with 30% or more. So, for this year I will also be trying 30% overdrive.
CS isn’t really new to me, I already had some good experience with a 50% CS ratio, but the pulley didn’t hold long enough to get a good setup for it.
To get 30% overdrive I ordered a 30T Square pulley for the rear. The remaining pulleys will be stock (39t front and 16t center).
Because the Square pulley is orignally for the Tamiya TA05 the holes aren’t big enough.
Cyclone oneway/spool pulley
Square pulley
I made the hole bigger with a body reamer. Don’t have a photo of it but I also made four outside holes a little bit bigger because they didn’t line up with the Cyclone’s spool.
The Square pulley installed.
Because I first want to test this new setup I didn’t buy a shorter belt.
So I built an idler gear with parts I had laying around.
I also changed the suspension mount because the belt is higher with the 30T pulley.
Used a F/R suspension mount from a Pro4 (TC-D’s also use these).
And my setup:
Date: 31-01-2012
Track surface: asphalt/tarmac
Tire: HPI T-Drift
Motor & ESC: Speedpassion 10.5T V1 & HW Xtremestock 60A
Servo: Hitec HS5965MG
Front
Camber: -6 dgr.
Toe: out 1 dgr.
Kick up: + 2mm
Caster hubs: 6 dgr.
Ride height: 5mm
Droop: 5mm
Springs: Speedworks Soft
Bumper weight: none
Sway-Bar: no sway-bar
Shock Oil: –
Rear
Camber: -2 dgr.
Toe: in 3.0 dgr.
Kick-up: 0mm
Ride height: 7.5mm
Droop: 1mm
Springs: HPI Silver
Sway-Bar: no sway-bar
Shock Oil: –
Drive Train
Gearing: front 39T x 16T / rear 30T x 16T (30%)
Front: Front one way
Center: –
Rear: Spool
Spur: 75T 48DP
Pinion: 25T 48DP
Wheel Offset
Front: 7mm
Rear: 7mm
